Can Tho, Vietnam's Cai Rang Floating Market 🇻🇳 Asia Spring 2024: Part II

Vietnam was at the top of my travel list for a long time.  As a self-proclaimed fanboy of Anthony Bourdain, his journies to Vietnam always seemed like such a farcry from what I was used to seeing within Asia.

We finally made the trip this past Spring as a part of a five country jaunt around (mostly) Southeast Asia, and I left wanting to return to Vietnam ASAP to see and experience the places we couldn't fit into this trip.

While Ho Chi Minh City didn't excite us too much (partly marred by a short bout of food poisoning), I was enamored with the Cai Rang Floating Market in Can Tho, despite how horribly some of the locals treat the river.

Can Tho (Cai Rang Floating Market)

Any true Bourdain fan has seen the floating markets in Can Tho when he popularized them on one of the first episodes of A Cook's Tour.  We visited Can Tho specifically for a tour of the infamous Cai Rang Floating Market.  Despite the unfortunate situation with some locals treating the river like a trash can, it was one of the more unique experiences we had on this trip to Asia.

But first, on our drive to Can Tho from Saigon, a stop at Vinh Trang Pagoda.  Highly recommend having your driver stop here if possible.  A good place to spend an hour while splitting up the 3-hour drive.

Our journey to the Cai Rang market started early before sunrise, making sure we reached the main market area during the peak time.  Despite that, the market was still a bit smaller than I had imagined.  Maybe I misremembered Bourdain's time on the water or it's just gotten substantially smaller over the years, but it didn't feel as big as I had thought.  Still, it was amazing and I knew immediately it was going to be a highlight of the entire trip.

It's amazingly cool to hitch up to some of the food and coffee vendors, each one hawking something different.  I'd recommend doing a private tour as you get to pick and choose a little in addition to the scheduled boat stops.  We were unable to find a tour that was solely the Cai Rang floating market, with all of them also tacking on a trip to see traditional noodle production.  This seems to potentially be more of a requirement by the organization responsible for Can Tho tourism.  It was still semi-interesting to see how they're traditionally made, just would have preferred a little more time on the Mekong.

We debated touring the other floating market in Can Tho, Phong Dien, but weren't sure it was worth it after Cai Rang – overall Cai Rang ruled and gave us what we ventured to Can Tho for.

As I mentioned a bit before, it was pretty sad to see all the littering some of the vendors did.  We regularly saw fruit vendors tossing packaging and plastic into the river as well as people pouring mysterious liquids off the coast.  If you've spent time in developing countries then you're well aware of how unfortunate some of its residents treat the local beauty.  It's just so sad to see the blatant disrespect of water.

I would have loved to have experienced this market 20 or so years ago when it was a little more vibrant and less touristy.  The large, diesel-spouting boats carrying around Chinese tourists doing karaoke at 7 AM are a bit annoying, but didn't distract too much from the market's uniqueness.

Ho Chi Minh City

Ho Chi Minh City (or as most people still call it, Saigon) was our launching point for our time in Vietnam and Cambodia after a few days in Hong Kong.  It was hot, humid, and sunny, which made staying at the Park Hyatt Saigon even sweeter.

Unfortunately, my time in Saigon was marred by a day and a half of food poisoning (I think a Yakult from Circle K that was improperly stored at some point). Still, I felt it was nonetheless a good introduction to the country.

I've found myself to be a big stamp nerd the last couple of years, an interest I think mostly spurred from the global Jerry Garcia stamps that were produced decades ago.  The Saigon Central Post Office was a highlight of Saigon for me.  In addition to all the vintage postcards and stamps for purchase, you can also send postcards from here, anywhere in the world.

One of the saddest things I've ever experienced was visiting the War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh City.  I thought visiting Hiroshima as an American made me feel like shit – it doesn't hold a candle to this.

A necessary visit for anyone in my opinion, especially if you're an American.  I didn't get pictures of the inside, but it's a multilevel building focusing on different aspects of the war and its global reach – it's graphic and sad, but most importantly, informative.

While Ho Chi Minh City felt like mostly a miss for us (I think mostly just due to food poisoning), the Cai Rang floating market in Can Tho really redeemed the southern part of Vietnam for us.  I'd love to spend more time in southern Vietnam around the Mekong Delta (or Phu Quoc!) next time.  While I really felt like northern Vietnam was the best part of the country, I think I owe it to the people of the South for some more time spent on the next trip.